Dalat Easy Rider tour

From rainy Hoi An, I've got to Dalat (with stop over in Nha Trang to change buses), which was a little bit less rainy, and actually I've been there quite lucky with the weather.
Dalat city is 120 years old and is known for its flower and vegetable plantations. 50% of income there comes from farming. Even though it laid on 1500 meters over sea level vegetation there never holds on. They harvest all year long, of course depending on the plant. And they also plant strawberries there, but unfortunately it was not harvest time, otherwise I'd prolly eat strawberries only.
There are two interesting things that you can do in Dalat: Easy Rider Tour and canyoning. Canyoning is more extreme and more expensive too, but I'd prefer to do it with good and sunny weather. And Easy Rider Tour is a tour on a motor bike with a guide who shows Dalat and its neighbourhood. This was what I've done there.
With Markus - Swedish guy whom I've met on the bus from Hoi An to Tha Trang and than Dalat we've booked Easy Rider tour and that was worth its value, this is where we've been:

Dalat from the hill

Dalat is known for its flower farms, this is one of them

Roses

At the flower farm

K'ho tribe. In this tribe when a couple gets married, it's a guy who moves into girl's house.If they have kids, they get woman's family name.

K'ho tribe house. I'm playing with toy, trying to shoot a stone into the tree trunk

Dragon temple - this temple is guarded by turtle, unicorns, phoenix and dragon, and in fact these are important creatures for Vietnamese people.

Silk factory - of course battery in my camera was almost empty by that time, so I have only single shots of most of the places and things

Elephant waterfall, named like that after elephants coming here to drink water

We got to the same bottom of that waterfall, where only local fisherman were. It was pretty scary to get there, so probably that's why...

Crazy house - designed by Vietnamese woman, who's studied architecture in Moscow and must have been taking some drugs to have an idea of such house

Crazy house

From Dalat we got to Mui Ne on the most bumpy bus ride that I've ever had, but at least it was pretty quick and the bus stopped in Mui Ne in front of single place in whole Mui Ne where you can get dorms, which is perfect for me, cause it's cheap (5$) and directly at the sea.
In Dalat though we were sharing double room with Marcus, which gave us 4$ per person per night, but I still like dorm better. And funny thing, cause we've met in Mui Ne almost everyone who we've met in Dalat.
More about fabulous beaches, sun and sea in Mui Ne in next post.

Central Vietnam

Hoi An is meant to be tailors city and believe me it is. I've never seen something like that. On each corner, on each street there are tailor stores and shoe maker stores. Door to door. Mostly they have the same or similar fabrics and designs, but you can come with your own design or a photo of a dress, trousers or whatever you dream about and they'll make it for you. They have loads of different albums and magazines with celebrities and their clothes, so you can ask for the exact copy too. What's more it is not too expensive and they are really quick. I had my dress done in 4 hours maybe. On the day that we were leaving Hoi An I've seen something that I might like, I've tried it and that was it, so I had it tailored, and actually it was so well tailored, that no changes needed to be done. Just perfect ;-)
Only due to the act that I was with Kaska, Fazi and Peszek I got so many clothes tailored, otherwise I'd be too annoyed and too tired to do it on my own, but with them it was fun to go there, pick fabrics, pick style, try, ask for changes and so one. Actually with them I was tired too, but with them I could have handled it.
City itself is beautiful too. We were not planning to stay there 2 nights, but after first walk that we made in the evening and the dinner (pumpkin soup which was just "a master" and spring rolls and octopus, I think that I've gained all the weight during that 2 days in Hoi An that I've managed to lost since leaving Poland) that we had we fell in love with it. It was lighted up with lampions, when we were walking there during the night, and it was almost flooded ;-). Next day river was even further up on the streets but no one seemed to be bothered. In any European country they would be building anti flood walls from sand but here it seems to be normal and live goes on. Even with that dress, I was told if you want to make some changes we have to speed up, cause tailor lives on the other side of the river and she might not manage to get through any more.
There was not much party in the city though, there was only one place which was opened a little bit longer (till 1 a.m.) and not really full. There were some backpackers but not too much. I have no clue where all the tourists were during the evenings. And whole ancient town center which is so beautiful - one storey buildings painted mainly in yellow, sometimes in blue or green. Here and there with temples and little gardens. Temples here are so much nicer than in China, more colorful and with more decorations and paintings.
Last day in Hoi An was such a rush, cause we had to pick up all the clothes and catch an Open Tour Bus tgrough Nha Trang to Dalat (for me) and Saigon (for them). And luckily we've managed ;-)

Sexy plastic rain coats

River

A lot of food

Google knows what you did last summer

No one is bothered by flood

Boat trip on the flooded river

Vietnamese coffee with sweet condensed milk

Which one to choose?

Vietnamese child

Hoi An ancient city center

Hoi An ancient city center

River flooding the street

Will this one suit me?

Temple

Tailored silk dress

Tight schedule

After I've arrived from Sapa at 4.30 a.m. I took one of that motorbikes and went back to Backpackers Hostel, where I've jumped into Kasia's bed to sleep a little longer, even though I've had good sleep on the train. Little while later we got on the mini bus to HalongBay, which was complete crap. We were 20 ppl on the boat, most of them boring or not speaking english at all like four fat russian guys or making mess like three people from France claiming that they've had their money stolen. I dunno the truth, but the truth is that they were completly drunken and they could have lost them or spend them and forget about it. That's ruined whole atmosphere which we were trying to build up. In the end we just decided to sleep on the deck and after ot got colder we've went to bed.

Next day in the morning we woke up quite early (about 7), but we also went quite early to bed and spend more of our time sun bathing. And indeed we managed to catch some sun. But we've also spent most of the time on the mini bus to get back to Hanoi. At least this time we had more space fo us, cause on the way to HalongBay it was very tight.

After we returned we catched Open Tour Bus to Hue, but because of the fact that we've bought our tickets through different travel agencies we were on the different buses, which made this experience not as it suposed to be. But still it was ok, and I must admit that I had good sleep, except that it was not really comfortable - beds were too short and to narrow and I did not like it that you could not make it completly flat.

We met up in Hue just to take 1h walk in the rain, and it was raining cats and dogs, and get on the further bus to Hoi An. Unfortunatelly we got separated again. Just when I've started to like this feeling of traveling with someone we always get separated, but we'll meet in Hoi An again, but accodring to weather forecast it pisses there too... And what winds me up is that fuckin airco blowing all the time in my head, and if it makes me ill again I'll get mad.

Party crew - Fazi, Peszek, Kaska ans me

Boats in HalongBay

Party crew

Floating city

Floating grocery

View from my chair

Can you see the land?

Sleeping bus

Walk in Hue

Buddha

Hue beer in Hue Backpackers Hostel

Hiking in Sapa

Despite being still not too fit I've decided to go to Sapa, so I've bought a trip in one of the travel agencies, which are here on each corner. Of course I've asked ten times about what's included and what is not and what we'll do there and how much hiking we'll do. I was told that there will be about 20 km hiking every day (I was going for 3 days and 4 nights - 2 nights were on the train though). I did not believe that but I thought if there will be about 15 km hiking a day it'll be still good, but when I've arrived to Lao Cai after 8h ride on the train and I've met tour agent in a hotel in Sapa and he told me that there will be 6 + 12 + 6 km of hiking I've started to complaint. It was not what I was told in the tour agency. He said that I could do 2 nights at home stay (in my original plan I was to do one night in a hotel and one in the home stay) and there will be more hiking. Which sounded ok for me, but than he said that he spoke with the tour agency and that I need to pay extra for that. But I've said no way and I spoke with the agency and finally they've given me that night home stay with no extra charge. But in fact home stay is suposed to be much cheaper than hotel so probably they've earned on me more than they would do if I've stayd in a hotel.
There was another problem, that I've had. In travel agency in HaNoi they've made a mistake and bought return ticket to HaNoi on 10th instead of on 11th. So again troubles, and I was complaining and they've promised to solve it and give me return ticket when I'm back from treking.
Treking itself was good. Not tyrying (maybe it was good option for me, as I was still taking medicines and I was not fully fit). There were 8 ppl in the group + english speaking tour guide, who was 18 years old girl from Black H'Mong tribe. From her I've learned a lot about Black H'mong and Red Zao tribes which live in some villages around Sapa.
Black H'Mong wear black clothes  - shorts, shirts and pieces of fabrics that they use to wrap their claves with (with self made flower patterns) with braoad indigo belts made from marihuana weed and died with leaves of some special plant. When they get married (usually with the age of about 15 or 165 years old) they wtart wearing big ear rings, comb in their hair and they arrange hair in a special way.
When girl gets married she will belong to the husband's famnily. So she lives with her husband and his parents in his house. It is son's duty to take care of his parents. Those customs are pretty similar to what we once used to have in Europe too, but about hundred years ago. But at least they can choose theis husband on their own. Couples are not arranged by parents any more.
On the contraty Red Zao wear long black trausers, black shirts, which are longer than those of Black H'Mong. They also have flower patterns on them but no indigo belt. When woman gets married she starts shaving her hair on the top of her forehead and wears piece of red cloth to cover hair. It looks like whe would have red hair. Other habits are similar.
I've asked out tour guide (I was asking a lot, especially on the second day, as we were only she and me, cause rest of the group was doing only one night at the some stay) if they can marry between two tribes and she said, that they do sometimes and if the Black H'mong girl marries Red Zao boy she becomes Red Zao. Same with faith. If man has different faith than his bride, she has to take over his faith. She has to always follow her husband. It is so good to be independent and be able to decide on my own what I want.
And of course that was one of the questions I was being constantly asked, how old am I, do I have husband, boyfriend. For my answer "no" I've always heard in response "We'll find you one here".
First night we were staying in Black H'Mong village. But it was not real home stay. We did not stay with the family as they describe it in the tour. It was kind of hostel with matresses on the floor and holes in the walls. We did not have dinner with the family, but with ourselves. The same was on the second night. It was a little bit more like with the family, cause at least I could see them, but still we were not eating with them, but with all other tourists. Seond night I've spent in Tay willage. They are similar to people leaving in Thailand, even their homes are similar, on big poles, with bamboo floor and walls. Actually I don't know how they survive winter with no heating. I was cold in the evening even though I was wearing all warm clothes that. At least during the night it was ok, but only because I had two blankets.
The best experience that I had there was on the third day during lunch. We went to Tay house for a lunch but I was not hungry so I've told my guide that I'll not be eating and that she should not order anything for me. But in the end I was sitting with her (and with a friend of her who joined us to learn as she also want to become tour guide) and with the lady in her house, around the fire place and I ate corn grilled in the fire, some spicy vegetable which they eat with vegeta and pear. That was finally traditional food in traditional house. And not that what we've been given: banana pancakes for breakfast or rice with different kinds of meat. I know that they eat it too, but probably not that often and that was cooked to satisfy western tastes.
Luckily they've managed to get train ticket for me, which I had some doubts about in the first instance, as I got it only when we've arrived at the train station and they were organising it. One of the guys took me on the motorbike as we had to hurry to be on time (even though it was not further than 300m), than left me in the vaiting room and after 5 mins handed me my ticket. Dunno how it works but I was happy to know that I'm leaving in 30 mins.
Most of the return way I've spend sleeping, only to wake up in HaNoi, get on the motorbike (my bargaining skills were fabulous this time, I was so harsh that guy who wanted to drive me knew that I'll not give him more than I've said so he had to go down with the price) and got to the hostel to jump into Kasia's bed. It was so good to meet friends and be able to lay my head for another 2 hours, take a shower and have breakfast in the hostel.
Now we are on the way to Halongbay (with another tour agency, let's see....). I've managed to book that trip today in the morning, together with Open Tour Bus to HoiAn for tomorrow evening. I don't remember having that productive morning during my trip ;-).

Waiting for the train to Lao Cai

Black H'Mong girl

Me and rice paddies

Red Zao married woman

School bell. They are very proud of their schools. That is what they were showing us in every village.

Black H'Mong woman crossing the river

Yes, it was cold



School - there are pupils from two or three classes in one actual class room

How disappointing, this is not the bridge that we used to cross the river

Red Zao girl

Second night of home stay, they prepare food for us

Here I did my second home stay

 This is where we did our first home stay

Rice paddies

Good Morning Vietnam

HK said me good-bye in rain, head ache, runny nose and prolly some fever. On the train from Hung Hom to Guangzhou I felt like shit. I actually I feel like shit now, as I'm on thart train ;-) And it makes me feel even more shity when I have in mind that I need to take a plane, which will make things even worse. I'm affraid that my ears will hurt....
But there is one positive thing about it all. On 31st of October 2010 in Guangzhou, there was subway opened linking East Railway Station with Bayiun Airport, which makes everything so much easier. Lucky girl.
And in Hanoi I've ordered airport pickup. I cannot be bothered to figure out in the middle of the night how to get from airport to the hostel, especially with all excessive baggage and not feeling too good.
After all my airport pick up did not arrive and I had to take a cab which in fact was cheaper than the service hostel offers, especially that I was sharing it with a guy who I've met on the airport.

But the next day was nightmare. I've spent most of it in my bed to finally in the end go to the doc. I had 38.8 fever and sinusitis. So I got Augmentin, Amiflu and Ibuprofen. Does not sound too good, but today after sleeping 12h during a night and sweating as hell I feel better, but I still consider if I should do Sapa trip or just stay in Hanoi till Kaska and Fazi are coming. I'll check how I feet tomorrow and decide. It's no fun being ill when you travel. But I guess that is my annual autumn sickness.

On the way to the clinic

Somewhere near hostel



View from the hostel entrance