Showing posts with label Doban. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Doban. Show all posts

Monday, 26 December 2011

Stairway to heaven

Day 17: Doban - Himalayan Hotel - Deorali - Machhapuchhre Base Camp
Today finally we were not going up and down the stairs but almost all the time up and there were not even to many stairs, but of course those could not have been avoided.
Most of the time we've been walking in the clouds. You could easily realise that as once in a while you had a feeling of stepping into the death cave. Cold and fog were coming in an instant and I was shivering. When we were leaving that cloud it was again getting warm and sunny.
Walk till Deorali was ok, but from there to MBC it was somehow tyring. i was not able to force myself to walk with any reasonable peace and that last part took me a little bit more than 2 hours whereas previous ones I was covering much faster than estimated.
To Machhapuchhre Base Camp (3700m) we got with Jacek and Stephen, but he went to ABC and we've stayed in MBC with the plan to get up about 4.30 a.m. and get there for the sun rise.
Deorali

Blue Buddhas

Machhapuchhre with a moon. Machhapuchhre means fish tail. And indeed from Chomrong it looks like fish tail, but not from MBC. This picture was taken in Machhapuchhre Base Camp, but even though there is a base camp this peak was never climbed and now it is even forbidden to climb it, so it probably never will. 

View from Machhapuchhre Base Camp

View from Machhapuchhre. We were coming from that cloud. once we were in it and once over, but in the end it's overcame us and covered us completely.

Day 18: Machhapuchhre Base Camp - Annapurna Base Camp - Machhapuchhre Base Camp - Deorali - Himalayan Hotel - Doban - Bamboo - Sinuwa - Chomrong (21,5 km)
I still don't know how we've done it. It was not planned at all but very spontaneous. We got up at 4.30 in the morning, left after another 20 minutes to ABC (4130m) and got there at 6.10, just in time. We watched the sun rise, took many pictures, had breakfast and went back to MBC.
In MBC we packed our gear and left. We were planning to spend the night in Bamboo, but on the way we've decided that in fact it;s still early and we could go further to Sinuwa. There again we've changed plans, took a challenge and went to Chomrong. And the challenge was that although Sinuwa (2050m) and Chomrong (2210m) are almost at the same altitude they are at the slopes which are opposite each other. So we had to cross the river which was at the 1800m and we knew that it will be another 2 hours of walking. 1h will be going down and another hour will be going up the stairs.  It was thousands of the stairs. But we already knew them, from the way down couple of days ago.
Reward was there. Hot shower, laundry (since couple of days I was dreaming about washing my trousers), network reception, dal bhat.
In terms of weather we had interesting experience today. At the ABC I was wearing my gore-tex pants and jacket, warm hand gloves, heavy boots, long-johns. But on the way down from MBC I've started to undress and in the end I was wearing shorts, sunnies and I was ever rolling up sleeves of the T-shirt.
Annapurna. Sunrise view form Annapurna Base Camp (4130m)

View from ABC

Annapurna South. View from ABC.

Panorama from ABC. Lighted peak on the left it's Annapurna South and the one on the right it's Annapurna I

Jacek and myself in the sunrise at ABC. Behind us is Annapurna South.

Sunrise in ABC

Sunrise in ABC

Tibetan praying flags

Yeah, we've made it!

Last shots, taken after breakfast. As usually - apple porridge with honey and masala tea.

Frozen bamboo

On the way down from Sinuwa. Jacek is pointing Chomrong, where we need to get.

Chomrong, hotels are at the top of the village...

Annapurna South in the sun setting down

My hand is in the clouds

Day 15: Ghorepani - Deorali - Tadapani - Ghurjung
In Ghorepani (2750m) many people go in the morning to the Poon Hill to see the the sun rise and brilliant view from the viewing platform.
We did not go there as we read in the Lonely Planet that on the way we will have opportunity to enjoy almost the same view (at least from the same height) from the Ghurung Hill. Just without sun rise. Even though we were not going there in the end we woke up with those who did, as they were making too much noise.
When we were leaving Snow View Lodge the Israeli girl came to ask Jacek and myself (Doris decided to leave us and go to Pokhara via Ghandruk, whereas we went to do ABC - Annapurna Base Camp) if we want three of those coal hand warmers. You just take it out from the packing, shake and they become warm and keep the heat up to 20 hours. Of course I took it (thank you, even though I don't know your name, that was very kind) and I've found it very useful in the following days.
Most of the way today was through rhododendron forest, and the way was all the time down. But to get to Tadapani we had to get all the way down to the river, cross the suspension bridge and next go up (the usual stuff). Overall balance for today is minus 740m, which we have to climb tomorrow.
It was exactly in Tadapani where Doris has separated from us, she went with Jean-Pierre to Ghandruk and Jacek and I headed to ABC. Apparently Stephen makes this trek too, so we walked together.
View from Ghurung Hill. I'm pointing Annapurna South

View from Ghurung Hill

Happy Trio. View from Ghurung Hill

Panorama from Ghurung Hill

View from Ghurung Hill

Jean-Pierre and Laxman

Informaiton board in Tadapani

Rhododendron forest

It seemed like nice guest house, especially with this huge field in front. That would be great spot to lay down and rest only if it was more sunny.

One of hundreds suspension bridges that we had to cross

Volleyball is popular even high in Himalaya

Day 16: Ghurjung - Chomrong - Sinuwa - Bamboo - Doban
Night in Ghurjung (2010m)  we've spent in family guest house. The place and people were so sweet. We were sitting with them in their dining room, watching TV. In the morning the owner offered us one more pot of tea for free. Great hospitality.
On the way to Chomrong we were following school kids. That's amazing how every day they walk 2 hours up the hill to go to school. And next back home from school. Now I really appreciate the fact that my school was 5 minutes away and that access to education is so easy in my world.
Chomrong (2210m) is the last real village on the ABC trek. All the other places are just lodges build for trekkers. It was also the last place with the network coverage. I've received text message there form my manager with question if I'm approachable for a Skype chat or phone call. Forget it, I could barely receive and send texts. All other activities were just impossible.
Surprisingly form Chomrong we again had to go all the way down to the river (this town is placed on the slope of a hill and most of the way leads by steps, thousands of steps), cross it and go all the way up to Sinuwa (2050m).
In Chomrong we've spent a lot of time so since then we were walking rather fast and that gave us idea that maybe instead of spending the night in Bamboo (I've seen such a nice lodge there...) as we planned before we might be able to reach Doban. We did that. We were very lucky too, as on the way form Bamboo little shower has started and by the time we've reached Doban it was already raining, but luckily we did not get very wet.
This unpleasant weather has started on the day when we were going to Ghorepani. Mornings are usually ok, but in the afternoon it gets cloudy, foggy and rainy.
I just wish that tomorrow we get over the clouds and we will have good views again.
Enjoy the steps

Tamarillos

Tamarillos

Another plant shooting mode