My hand is in the clouds

Day 15: Ghorepani - Deorali - Tadapani - Ghurjung

In Ghorepani (2750m) many people go in the morning to the Poon Hill to see the the sun rise and brilliant view from the viewing platform.

We did not go there as we read in the Lonely Planet that on the way we will have opportunity to enjoy almost the same view (at least from the same height) from the Ghurung Hill. Just without sun rise. Even though we were not going there in the end we woke up with those who did, as they were making too much noise.

When we were leaving Snow View Lodge the Israeli girl came to ask Jacek and myself (Doris decided to leave us and go to Pokhara via Ghandruk, whereas we went to do ABC - Annapurna Base Camp) if we want three of those coal hand warmers. You just take it out from the packing, shake and they become warm and keep the heat up to 20 hours. Of course I took it (thank you, even though I don't know your name, that was very kind) and I've found it very useful in the following days.

Most of the way today was through rhododendron forest, and the way was all the time down. But to get to Tadapani we had to get all the way down to the river, cross the suspension bridge and next go up (the usual stuff). Overall balance for today is minus 740m, which we have to climb tomorrow.

It was exactly in Tadapani where Doris has separated from us, she went with Jean-Pierre to Ghandruk and Jacek and I headed to ABC. Apparently Stephen makes this trek too, so we walked together.

View from Ghurung Hill. I'm pointing Annapurna South

View from Ghurung Hill

Happy Trio. View from Ghurung Hill

Panorama from Ghurung Hill

View from Ghurung Hill

Jean-Pierre and Laxman

Informaiton board in Tadapani

Rhododendron forest

It seemed like nice guest house, especially with this huge field in front. That would be great spot to lay down and rest only if it was more sunny.

One of hundreds suspension bridges that we had to cross

Volleyball is popular even high in Himalaya

Day 16: Ghurjung - Chomrong - Sinuwa - Bamboo - Doban

Night in Ghurjung (2010m)  we've spent in family guest house. The place and people were so sweet. We were sitting with them in their dining room, watching TV. In the morning the owner offered us one more pot of tea for free. Great hospitality.

On the way to Chomrong we were following school kids. That's amazing how every day they walk 2 hours up the hill to go to school. And next back home from school. Now I really appreciate the fact that my school was 5 minutes away and that access to education is so easy in my world.

Chomrong (2210m) is the last real village on the ABC trek. All the other places are just lodges build for trekkers. It was also the last place with the network coverage. I've received text message there form my manager with question if I'm approachable for a Skype chat or phone call. Forget it, I could barely receive and send texts. All other activities were just impossible.

Surprisingly form Chomrong we again had to go all the way down to the river (this town is placed on the slope of a hill and most of the way leads by steps, thousands of steps), cross it and go all the way up to Sinuwa (2050m).

In Chomrong we've spent a lot of time so since then we were walking rather fast and that gave us idea that maybe instead of spending the night in Bamboo (I've seen such a nice lodge there...) as we planned before we might be able to reach Doban. We did that. We were very lucky too, as on the way form Bamboo little shower has started and by the time we've reached Doban it was already raining, but luckily we did not get very wet.

This unpleasant weather has started on the day when we were going to Ghorepani. Mornings are usually ok, but in the afternoon it gets cloudy, foggy and rainy.

I just wish that tomorrow we get over the clouds and we will have good views again.

Enjoy the steps

Tamarillos

Tamarillos

Another plant shooting mode

I'm leaving on a jet plane

Kinga, Doris, Jacek and myself. Already in March/April we've planned this trekking in the Himalayas. We've planned to do Annapurna Circuit. Actually there was not too much planning done: we've bought tickets, Lonely Planet guide book - Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya, replenished broken or missing trekking equipment and that's it.

We've met once more to take a look at the map, which Doris got from one of her friends who did that trek last year (otherwise we would probably fly there without even a map) and even tried to do some more planning but somehow we let it go.

In fact when I think about it from the perspective of time - after the trek - more planning was not necessary.

Sadly just before the trip Kinga found out that due to the health problems she is not allowed to fly. Actually not the flying was the problem but the place and the type of the holidays. So instead of three different ideas Jacek had to listen only to two ;-)

We flew to Delhi via Moscow with Aeroflot airlines. Very interesting flight, especially one very specific Russian guy. Tattooed, dressed like viking or member of some Germanic tribe going for war. I just wonder how did they let him through security on the airport (especially in Moscow where you are even checked when you transfer) or how long does it take him to go through. For sure he had to take off all his bandages, leather, buckles and cords. And his leash (sic!) that his friend was using to lead him on.

In Delhi we were supposed to fly at 7.30 a.m, but couple of days before our flight was moved to 8.40 p.m. causing us 13 hours delay. That pissed us off, but even though I've managed to use all my charm to convince the man at the JetAir airlines sales desk to find us earlier flight and change it although we were told before by other guy at the another counter that there are not tickets and flights available. That everyone has the same problem in fact. That was of course bull shit as the mas easily made the change and we flew at 12.40. And what's more the flight was half empty.

My charm by then got exhausted and all day I must have been annoying, wound up, hungry, tired and sleepy. Big apologises to Jacek and Doris ;-)

Time in Kathmandu was short and we've spent it organising permits:

• ACAP - Annapurna Conservation Area Project: launched in 1986 to protect the environment with sustainable community development in Annapurna area by the local people.
• TIMS - Trekkers' Information Management System: implemented to ensure safety and security of the trekkers and to control illegal trekking operations

For ACAP we had to apply in Tourist Center in Kathmandu. It's a place where you can get your TIMS too, but then we were there it was closed and we had to go to TAAN (Trekking Agencies Association of Nepal) at the end of the city. We also had to return to Tourist Center cause Doris did not have her photos which you need for the permits. Two for each.

After we had all organised the only thing which we had to do was to change money and we've screwed it up. The easiest thing you can imagine to do in Thamel - tourist district in Kathmandu where we were staying. But we've met father and son from Poland, had beer with them and by the time we went back to our hotel all the x-change  spots were closed and they were not opened till 7.30 (or so) in the morning so instead of taking bus early in the morning to Besi Sahar we've taken bus only at 8.45 but even though we've made it to Besi Sahar on 13th of November already.

On a plane from Delhi to Kathmandu

Kathmandu from the air

Kathmandu from the air

Everest - our first beer in Kathmandu. Although I prefer Ghorka.

Nepalese must be very tolerant in terms of gender. Check this out. When filling in the form to get TIMS there are three choices available: Female, Male, Third

If you've forgotten trekking shoes you can buy them on the local market.

The same applies for water resistant watches. Make sure to notice this sophisticated model of proving the resistance.

Entrance to Thamel. Kathmandu's tourist district.

Kathmandu at 6.30 in the morning. This is when we were trying to find any open money x-change store.

Finally. On the bus to Besi Sahar.