Go get some sleep on bare stones

Pokhara - Kathmandu

I was not expecting it at all. I got stacked in Pokhara at the airport. Somehow it did not cross my mind that there can be fog and that airports will be closed. There was even a risk that flights will be cancelled. Damn it! I should have taken the bus with the others.

Even when I got to the airport I was still unaware that it’s closed. Only when I was dropping off my luggage I’ve found it out, that Kathmandu and Pokhara are closed.

There were more and more people coming and waiting for their flights, but nothing was changing. People were organizing jeep transport to Kathmandu. I could not decide if I should cancel my flight and join someone or naively hope that we’ll fly. Maybe it was not even that naïve as after some time Kathmandu airport got opened for departures and there was a chance that soon they will open it for arrivals as they might do with Pokhara. But still it was hazardous.

Just before 1p.m. I went down to ask at the counter how it’s going and I was told that just now they’ve opened Pokhara, so the plane is boarding in Kathmandu and it should arrive here very soon and as soon as it arrives here we will fly.

There was Slovakian girl going nuts because she had her flight to Delhi at 5 and stupidly she did not consider flying the day before just in case like today. I went to tell her good news too.

Shortly after that we got through security and we saw the plane landing and people getting off.

In all this bad luck I was lucky enough that I’ve bought ticket with Agni Air and that was the 1^st plane to arrive in Pokhara and actually the only one that I saw landing. I’m not sure if people from other flights flew that day. There was FIFO rule at the airport.

When we were queuing at the gate we were told that that we have to wait more. Kathmandu airport is very busy and we cannot fly. We have to wait at least 1h until traffic gets less heavy. Luckily after 20 minutes we could board the plane and we flew and safely for to Kathmandu.

I got there the same time as Jacek and Doris even though I was supposed to be there long before them. We were staying there in Kathmandu Guest House which is the oldest hotel in the city. We’ve only dropped luggage and went to see Swayambhunath Stupa – the smiley Buddha eyes. This is the first thing that comes to my mind when I think about Kathmandu. But it was not that impressive at all. Rubbish, knick-knacks, monkeys everywhere. In fact it was ugly there.

We went there by cab but walked back and as we were crossing the river we’ve noticed dead cow lying there. It was surrounded by tons of rubbish. Whole river looked like rubbish deposit.

For dinner we went to the place where they were serving tongba – hot millet beer. It is served in bamboo tube, but it’s definitely not my favorite alcoholic drink. It was too smelly and tasted too much with yeast.

On the plane from Pokhara to Kathmandu. My camera was still not working very well. Colors are very strange.

Swayambhunath Temple - Smiley eyes of Buddha

Swayambhunath Temple - Smiley eyes of Buddha

Swayambhunath Temple - Smiley eyes of Buddha

Swayambhunath Temple - Smiley eyes of Cela and Buddha

Tongba - millet beer

Bhaktapur
Day after we’ve arrived in Kathamndu we’ve decided to take local bus and go to Bhaktapur which is situated 13 km east of Kathmandu and used to be capital of Nepal, It dates back to 7^th century and is famous for its traffic free center with plenty of pagoda and temples.
Unfortunately for me on the way to the bus station I’ve started to feel sick. My stomach was getting worst and worst. By the time we’ve arrived in Bhaktapur I was really weak and sick. It was not only my stomach I had overall feeling of weakness. It was just terrible. I’ve barely managed to get to Taumadhi Square where we had tea in one of the guest houses. In the mean time Doris mentioned that I’m feeling weak and she’s also asked if I can lie down in that guest house somewhere. Surprisingly they allowed me to lie down in the lobby.  When I was sleeping there, Doris and Jacek were sightseeing.
That rest has definitely helped me, gave me some king of relief but still I was not fit enough. On the way to taxi (as we decided to take taxi instead of bus, as I was fearing that I will not be able to make it y bus), in fact just before getting in I’ve almost threw up and next when we left it in Thamel. It was such a challenge to walk that 200m from taxi to hotel that when I think about it now it just seems impossible.
I was on the cloud nine when I could go to bed and stay there and sleep. It was basically my only occupation for the rest of the day. Lying down and sleeping. And I’ve even used hand warmer that I got from the Israeli girl. My feet were so cold that I was not able to fall asleep until I’ve made them warm with that thingy.

One of very few pictures taken by me in Bhaptapur. I even don't know where that is.

Here it feels like I'm dying

Golden Gate in Bhaktapur

I'm leaving on a jet plane

Kinga, Doris, Jacek and myself. Already in March/April we've planned this trekking in the Himalayas. We've planned to do Annapurna Circuit. Actually there was not too much planning done: we've bought tickets, Lonely Planet guide book - Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya, replenished broken or missing trekking equipment and that's it.

We've met once more to take a look at the map, which Doris got from one of her friends who did that trek last year (otherwise we would probably fly there without even a map) and even tried to do some more planning but somehow we let it go.

In fact when I think about it from the perspective of time - after the trek - more planning was not necessary.

Sadly just before the trip Kinga found out that due to the health problems she is not allowed to fly. Actually not the flying was the problem but the place and the type of the holidays. So instead of three different ideas Jacek had to listen only to two ;-)

We flew to Delhi via Moscow with Aeroflot airlines. Very interesting flight, especially one very specific Russian guy. Tattooed, dressed like viking or member of some Germanic tribe going for war. I just wonder how did they let him through security on the airport (especially in Moscow where you are even checked when you transfer) or how long does it take him to go through. For sure he had to take off all his bandages, leather, buckles and cords. And his leash (sic!) that his friend was using to lead him on.

In Delhi we were supposed to fly at 7.30 a.m, but couple of days before our flight was moved to 8.40 p.m. causing us 13 hours delay. That pissed us off, but even though I've managed to use all my charm to convince the man at the JetAir airlines sales desk to find us earlier flight and change it although we were told before by other guy at the another counter that there are not tickets and flights available. That everyone has the same problem in fact. That was of course bull shit as the mas easily made the change and we flew at 12.40. And what's more the flight was half empty.

My charm by then got exhausted and all day I must have been annoying, wound up, hungry, tired and sleepy. Big apologises to Jacek and Doris ;-)

Time in Kathmandu was short and we've spent it organising permits:

• ACAP - Annapurna Conservation Area Project: launched in 1986 to protect the environment with sustainable community development in Annapurna area by the local people.
• TIMS - Trekkers' Information Management System: implemented to ensure safety and security of the trekkers and to control illegal trekking operations

For ACAP we had to apply in Tourist Center in Kathmandu. It's a place where you can get your TIMS too, but then we were there it was closed and we had to go to TAAN (Trekking Agencies Association of Nepal) at the end of the city. We also had to return to Tourist Center cause Doris did not have her photos which you need for the permits. Two for each.

After we had all organised the only thing which we had to do was to change money and we've screwed it up. The easiest thing you can imagine to do in Thamel - tourist district in Kathmandu where we were staying. But we've met father and son from Poland, had beer with them and by the time we went back to our hotel all the x-change  spots were closed and they were not opened till 7.30 (or so) in the morning so instead of taking bus early in the morning to Besi Sahar we've taken bus only at 8.45 but even though we've made it to Besi Sahar on 13th of November already.

On a plane from Delhi to Kathmandu

Kathmandu from the air

Kathmandu from the air

Everest - our first beer in Kathmandu. Although I prefer Ghorka.

Nepalese must be very tolerant in terms of gender. Check this out. When filling in the form to get TIMS there are three choices available: Female, Male, Third

If you've forgotten trekking shoes you can buy them on the local market.

The same applies for water resistant watches. Make sure to notice this sophisticated model of proving the resistance.

Entrance to Thamel. Kathmandu's tourist district.

Kathmandu at 6.30 in the morning. This is when we were trying to find any open money x-change store.

Finally. On the bus to Besi Sahar.