We walk

Day 1: Besi Sahar - Bhulbhule - Ghermu (22km)
Trekking itself we've started on 14th November from Besi Sahar. Today we were supposed to reach Syange and we did not. We've planned to start at 8 a.m. but in the end we've left the GH at 8.30.

We took a road to Khudi and from there to Bhulbhule where we had our ACAP checked for the first time. Doris also discussed with the lad who was checking it Nepali calendar. We did not know it but arriving in Nepal you enter the future - current year is 2068 although I'm not sure if I want future to look like that.

Next we've headed to Ngadi Bazaar where we had lunch in Holiday Hiker Lodge. We were tempted by big garden full of flowers in blossom. There we used our water filter for the first time. Actually pumping water was rather annoying, apparently we've chosen the most difficult way of purifying water.

After lunch we were climbing for 2h to Bahundanda and during that climb we've realised that times given in Lonely Planet guide book and in the Appanurna Circuit profile published by the ACAP are rather irrelevant, at least for our group. We usually need more time then they predict. I guess times are given for the joggers without 15kg bags on their backs or for those with porters to carry their stuff.

That also made me think about porter business here. On the one hand side they get good money for that job and they can support their families, but on the other hand when I see them carrying 30kg bags and bearing in mind that my 15kg bad is heavy already, I feel sorry for them. Especially that they don't have bags but carry everything hooked somehow to their foreheads. Of course porter makes sense when you go for a trek where there are no lodges to spend the night but you sleep in a tent and if you cook but not when all the infrastructure is there.

One of my friends told me recently that her aunt and uncle did one of the treks and they had a porter who was carrying all the food they took from home and they were eating that food only. I find it really foolish, especially that local food tastes really good and when you do not order food in the place where you sleep they usually charge you even more for the room than if you would be eating there.

After Bahundanda we've started to descend and instead of Syange we've reached Ghermu (1140m) only. In Kanigaon we were caught by rain and we ended up in the Crystal GH in Ghermu. We got there soaked and cold, but we got surprised there - hot shower that we were not expecting at all. Such a pleasure to take hot shower (even though the water was not outflowing and you were standing there in a small swimming pool of soap and shampoos of the people taking shower before you).

Rice paddies just after Besi Sahar

ACAP black board informing tourists what is allowed and what's not

First of many suspension bridges that we've crosses. This one is the most dilapidated.

Just Spider

Hotel Hilton

Place of our first lunch during the trek. We were tempted by the flowery garden.

In memory of Polish Himalaist - Jacek Klincewicz

Jacek, myself and Doris

Local boy showes me how he flies

Day 2: Ghermu - Syange - Jagat - Chamje Tal - Dharapani (18 km)

Next day when we've reached Dharapani (1960m) after 10,5h of trekking it was already dark. We did not manage to get room in one of the recommended GHs and we had to take what was left. That place was so bad. Bad quality, poor English. No wonder we were the only guests there.
All the way was marked by donkeys. In particular by their shit. And if there was no shit there were corn grains, which of course some time ago must have been donkey's shit but now they are rinsed by rain. 

In Ghermu we've started at 7.30 and we went to Syange (ugly place, all houses built from the corrugated iron, we were really glad that we did not manage to get there last night) and next to Jagat. From Jagat we took alternate route to Chamje. We've climbed up from the main road to the steep slope where the original route was leading. We even saw some dilapidated buildings which must have been lodges.

Most people take lunch in Chamje, but as it was still early (11 only) we went further to Tal.We reached there starving thirsty and tired. We were hoping to filter water somewhere on the way but there was not even single well or spring or small waterfall. So in the end 30 minutes before Tal we had to buy the most expensive water bottle so far 110 Nepali rupees. 1,5$. But that saved our lives.

In Tal we had lunch in Paradise Lodge which is famous for its potato, pumpkin mix with corn bread. Indeed delicious. It made me so full that I've skipped dinner. I was actually glad I can skip it in that shabby GH.

The only failure was that it took too long to prepare it and we were able to leave Tal only at 15.20 which was actually quite late. And what's more after 10 minutes of walking we had to stop. Road works are taking place and they were blasting rocks. Gladly it was short break and soon we could continue. And we were continuing till 17.40 as Karte were at first we were planning to stop did not enchanted us.
Since yesterday I'm not having network reception. My mobile finds one network but it's not compatible with my network operator back at home, so now finally I'm free.

Waterfalls just after Ghermu

This is how Nepalese carry things, hooked to their heads. We were told that only Nepalese head can withstand it ;-)

Nepalese girl

Donkeys. Or are they mules?

And another suspension bridge.

It's still the same

Picnic at Hanging Rock

This is where the road is being build

Information about road construction and blasting and advice to avoid certain parts of the trek after 3 p.m.

I'm leaving on a jet plane

Kinga, Doris, Jacek and myself. Already in March/April we've planned this trekking in the Himalayas. We've planned to do Annapurna Circuit. Actually there was not too much planning done: we've bought tickets, Lonely Planet guide book - Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya, replenished broken or missing trekking equipment and that's it.

We've met once more to take a look at the map, which Doris got from one of her friends who did that trek last year (otherwise we would probably fly there without even a map) and even tried to do some more planning but somehow we let it go.

In fact when I think about it from the perspective of time - after the trek - more planning was not necessary.

Sadly just before the trip Kinga found out that due to the health problems she is not allowed to fly. Actually not the flying was the problem but the place and the type of the holidays. So instead of three different ideas Jacek had to listen only to two ;-)

We flew to Delhi via Moscow with Aeroflot airlines. Very interesting flight, especially one very specific Russian guy. Tattooed, dressed like viking or member of some Germanic tribe going for war. I just wonder how did they let him through security on the airport (especially in Moscow where you are even checked when you transfer) or how long does it take him to go through. For sure he had to take off all his bandages, leather, buckles and cords. And his leash (sic!) that his friend was using to lead him on.

In Delhi we were supposed to fly at 7.30 a.m, but couple of days before our flight was moved to 8.40 p.m. causing us 13 hours delay. That pissed us off, but even though I've managed to use all my charm to convince the man at the JetAir airlines sales desk to find us earlier flight and change it although we were told before by other guy at the another counter that there are not tickets and flights available. That everyone has the same problem in fact. That was of course bull shit as the mas easily made the change and we flew at 12.40. And what's more the flight was half empty.

My charm by then got exhausted and all day I must have been annoying, wound up, hungry, tired and sleepy. Big apologises to Jacek and Doris ;-)

Time in Kathmandu was short and we've spent it organising permits:

• ACAP - Annapurna Conservation Area Project: launched in 1986 to protect the environment with sustainable community development in Annapurna area by the local people.
• TIMS - Trekkers' Information Management System: implemented to ensure safety and security of the trekkers and to control illegal trekking operations

For ACAP we had to apply in Tourist Center in Kathmandu. It's a place where you can get your TIMS too, but then we were there it was closed and we had to go to TAAN (Trekking Agencies Association of Nepal) at the end of the city. We also had to return to Tourist Center cause Doris did not have her photos which you need for the permits. Two for each.

After we had all organised the only thing which we had to do was to change money and we've screwed it up. The easiest thing you can imagine to do in Thamel - tourist district in Kathmandu where we were staying. But we've met father and son from Poland, had beer with them and by the time we went back to our hotel all the x-change  spots were closed and they were not opened till 7.30 (or so) in the morning so instead of taking bus early in the morning to Besi Sahar we've taken bus only at 8.45 but even though we've made it to Besi Sahar on 13th of November already.

On a plane from Delhi to Kathmandu

Kathmandu from the air

Kathmandu from the air

Everest - our first beer in Kathmandu. Although I prefer Ghorka.

Nepalese must be very tolerant in terms of gender. Check this out. When filling in the form to get TIMS there are three choices available: Female, Male, Third

If you've forgotten trekking shoes you can buy them on the local market.

The same applies for water resistant watches. Make sure to notice this sophisticated model of proving the resistance.

Entrance to Thamel. Kathmandu's tourist district.

Kathmandu at 6.30 in the morning. This is when we were trying to find any open money x-change store.

Finally. On the bus to Besi Sahar.