My morning jacket

Day 5: Upper Pisang - Ghyaru - Ngawal - Bragha - Manang (20k)

We knew that day when we’ll be going form Upper Pisang to Manang will be another exhausting one. That’s why we’ve decided for the early wake-up call, 6 a.m. Breakfast at 6.30 and start at 7. But as usually in the end we’ve set of at 7.40 after saying goodbye to the Americans. Now I even cannot recall why we did that as anyways it was certain we’ll meet.
The day was indeed a little bit trying, especially the last part from Bragha to Manang. I guess it was caused by the fact that from Upper Pisang to Ghyaru (3670) we’ve been going constantly up. We’ve done it rather fast and probably that was too quick and was the reason why in the end I got so shattered.
Views from Ghyaru were fabulous (especially that weather was really good and visibility was perfect, as was the sun). We were sitting there, having ginger tea and enjoying views of Lower Pisang, Lake of Mring Tso and later on views of the whole way we’ve covered from Pisang and Humde with its airport. I gad strange feeling there. It felt like I were skiing and just giving a lunch break. I guess it was that frosty air, sunny weather and views of peaks covered with snow that were giving me this impression. 
We had lunch in Nagwal (small restaurant just at the beginning of the village) – the best fried noodles with veggies, egg and cheese. They were fully covered in that yummy yak (nak in fact) cheese. Just when we were finishing something got into my eye. I’m not sure what that was, no one could see anything there, but it was hurting mu pupil. Luckily the Americans came just in time to rescue me with their eye drops (thanks Sara and Aaron!).
After Ngwal it’s started to be difficult. It wasn’t getting steeper or anything, path itself was getting easier, but my strength was getting weaker and weaker. Last part from Bragha took me 1 hour instead of 30 minutes. I was just crawling.
In Manang (3540m) we were at 3.30 p.m. and unfortunately we did not manage to get place in the lodge where we wanted to stay (all recommended places were fully booked as most of the people stay here 2 up to 3 days for better acclimatization) and in the end we’ve ended in Singi (not very spectacular) with our hiking friends.

Morning view from the Upper Pisang

Receipt from the Yak and Yeti Lodge. Usually one of us was paying, we were taking the receipt, or taking the picture and calculating who owns how much.

View of Lower Pisang from Upper Pisang

I'm reaching Ghyaru

Rest in Ghyaru, after steep ascent

Doris and Jacek on the way

View over Humde, somewhere between Ghyaru and Ngawal. Notice the airport at the right.

This was where I was already tired, my Achilles was aching more and more and I was looking for some fun.

Just before Manang

Day 6: Manang - Ice Lake - Manang
Like most of the people we’ve stayed 2 days in Manang, but to keep ourselves busy and to leverage acclimatization effort we went to Kicho Tso – Ice Lake (4620m). We had to climb more than 1000m and next go down.
Climb itself was monotonous and long and boring, but the views (especially those behind our back) were amazing. Just the lake was not stunning, disappointing actually.
I was also surprised that I did not encounter any altitude sickness problems. I just got a little bit dizzy two or three times on the way up, but otherwise it was very much ok. On the way down though I had blocked ears, but maybe we were going down too fast. We’ve met the group of Indians who were with the guide who knew the path directly to Manang and not through Bragha like on the way up.
When I’ve arrived back to Manang I was hoping for hot shower, but the solar system in our lodge that was supposed to work today was still out of order. In the end I took a shower in Tilicho Hotel, but that was cold too. Maybe not stinging cold, but very much lukewarm and in the evening I did not feel well any more. I guess I was exhausted after whole day of trekking and when I took cold shower and went out I must have got cold.
Also my Achilles is not well. There is something growing and it hurts when I walk in my boots. They rub that place and with every place it’s painful. I just have to start wearing my running shoes which I took in case of emergency.

On the way to Ice Lake. View over Bragha.

Bragha

Bragha

Way to Ice Lake was boring and monotonous, but the views were spectacular. Especially those behind our backs.

View over Manang

Ice Lake. Disappointing, ain't it?

Ice Lake (4620m)

When we've reached Mamamg district we noticed new item on the menu. Sea-buckthorn juice (spelling of sea-buckthorn was different in each place, there were even variations of the spelling on one menu). It's very reach in vitamin C (it's got more vitamin C than orange) and very tasty. It's made from the fruits above.

I got into plant shooting mode on the way down from the Ice Lake

Misty mountain hop

Day 3: Dharapani - Chame (16k)
Chame (2710m) is said to be the best supplier village on the way. And indeed internet, reception of my network operator, well stocked stores with all necessary trekking gear.

The first part of the way to get to Chame was difficult. I guess I must have had a crisis that day. Maybe it was due to the lack of dinner the night before and small breakfast today. I just did not have energy. I was walking as slow as never. Only after I had lunch (and I almost froze there – second crisis this day. I guess it was the coldest moment in the whole trip caused by the freezing wind and thick fog) I had more energy and I was able to walk with reasonable peace.

In Chame we were staying in Manaslu View Hotel. It was recommended to us by one of the guides who we were meeting every day on the road with the Belgian guy whom he was babysitting all the time. They were to book a room for us there, but actually we’ve reached there before them.

It’s a good place with hot shower, heated dining room (first one on the trek that we come across), good food and nice people (this is where we met the Americans with whom we’ve been meeting all the way up and in the end we’ve been hiking together all the way to Marpha).

Way to Manang

Polish Indian Summer

These porters were carrying metal pipes to build water electro plant. Each of there pipes weights 90 kg. They must be heavier than they are.

Kill me, but I don't remember at all where this picture was taken

Day 4: Chame - Bhratang - Dhukur Pokhari - Upper Pisang (15k)

When we got up in the morning in Chame it was sunny. In fact it was the first really sunny day since we’ve started our trip. There was no single cloud on the sky, only in the noon some clouds started to appear on the sky. The view was fabulous – Annapurna and Manaslu. I’ve also noticed how dramatically the Marsyangdi River has narrowed in comparison to what we’ve seen in Besi Sahar.

The trek was relatively easy with surrounding landscape like in Beskidy Mountains in Poland with the only difference that here we were at the altitude of about 3000m and in Poland the same landscape is on about 1000 meters.

Just after Telekhu again we did alternative route which was really spectacular and views were amazing. The interesting thing was wild strawberries that we’ve seen. Unfortunately we’ve seen only plants, berries were gone. I guess it was too late already and all were eaten.

We had choice of spending the night either in Upper or Lower Pisang. We’ve decided for the Upper Pisang (3310m) and stayed in Yak & Yeti GH. Apparently it’s better from the acclimatization point of view to sleep in the Upper Pisang and take the upper road via Ghyaru instead of chillaxing one via Humde.

Alternate route just after Chame. Very Polish like landscape.

Hello, Poland! No, this was how alternate routes were marked.

Moon over the...

Water purifying. Jacek was nominated to be the main water filtering specialist. But he did not do his work too good. Only couple of days before we've finished trekking he read in LP that water pumping is not sufficient to purify water that comes from glacier streams. This water should be additionally iodised, which we were not doing. Luckily none of us got sick.

Praying wheels. Each of these walls with wheels should be passed in the clockwise direction. Wheels too should be turned clockwise.

Remember! Clockwise.

This is where the new road will/is leading

River crossing. I love this picture.

That view was amazing. Look at the slop, it looks so smooth.

Road works. I guess he is making holes for the dynamite to blast the rocks.

On the road again

Jacek is a good model. Usually we were reaching each place after him and we usually saw him in this pose.

Upper Pisang

i don;t know what that means, but there were horns in the houses. I guess they are yak horns.

Another wall of praying wheels

Doris in the contemplation mode. View over Lower Pissang from the temple in Upper Pisang.

Aaron, myself, Bobbie, Sarah and Jacek in the corner in the dining room of Yak and Yeti Guest House