Don't look now but I think I'm sweating blood

Day 7: Manang - Tengi - Gunsang - Yak Kharka (9 km)

It was supposed to be really easy day. But in fact it was really tough one for me. As mentioned earlier I did not feel well in the evening and I did not get better in the morning either. When I woke up my nose was stuffed and my sinuses were aching like hell and the trek that was supposed to take 3 hours took me 5. I was really concerned about that fact and I was struggling what to do next. Keep going? Stay one day in Yak Kharka (4020m) and rest? Take antibiotics?

Gladly one of the Indian girls was physician and she’s helped me. She’s examined my throat, asked some questions and recommended taking antibiotics. So I took Zinnat which was prescribed by my laryngologist back in Warsaw just for situation like this one.
I also had to ask Doris and Jacek to take one day break and stay in Yak Kharka. Staying here is definitely better (and probably a little bit warmer) here than in Thorung Phedi.

Yak

Jacek in his famous pose

View on the way to Yak Kharka

Day 8: Yak Kharka
And indeed we’ve spent one more day in Yak Kharka. In the morning I was little bit better, but definitely not in shape to take up hiking. I’ve been resting all day long. Sleeping till 9, reading and sitting in the sun.
I was priceless to see surprised faces of Bobbie, Sara, Aaron and Brian when they got to Yak Kharka the next day (as one of them did not feel well the previous day they’ve stayed in Manang one day longer) and was us just sitting there and relaxing. It was even nicer to hear from them that they’ve been missing their Polish crew and they are glad to see us again, although they are not glad I got sick.

Aaron with Superman like curl on his forehead

We used to order big pot of ginger tea. In Yak Kharka we got in in rusted thermos. But just a little bit.

My morning jacket

Day 5: Upper Pisang - Ghyaru - Ngawal - Bragha - Manang (20k)

We knew that day when we’ll be going form Upper Pisang to Manang will be another exhausting one. That’s why we’ve decided for the early wake-up call, 6 a.m. Breakfast at 6.30 and start at 7. But as usually in the end we’ve set of at 7.40 after saying goodbye to the Americans. Now I even cannot recall why we did that as anyways it was certain we’ll meet.
The day was indeed a little bit trying, especially the last part from Bragha to Manang. I guess it was caused by the fact that from Upper Pisang to Ghyaru (3670) we’ve been going constantly up. We’ve done it rather fast and probably that was too quick and was the reason why in the end I got so shattered.
Views from Ghyaru were fabulous (especially that weather was really good and visibility was perfect, as was the sun). We were sitting there, having ginger tea and enjoying views of Lower Pisang, Lake of Mring Tso and later on views of the whole way we’ve covered from Pisang and Humde with its airport. I gad strange feeling there. It felt like I were skiing and just giving a lunch break. I guess it was that frosty air, sunny weather and views of peaks covered with snow that were giving me this impression. 
We had lunch in Nagwal (small restaurant just at the beginning of the village) – the best fried noodles with veggies, egg and cheese. They were fully covered in that yummy yak (nak in fact) cheese. Just when we were finishing something got into my eye. I’m not sure what that was, no one could see anything there, but it was hurting mu pupil. Luckily the Americans came just in time to rescue me with their eye drops (thanks Sara and Aaron!).
After Ngwal it’s started to be difficult. It wasn’t getting steeper or anything, path itself was getting easier, but my strength was getting weaker and weaker. Last part from Bragha took me 1 hour instead of 30 minutes. I was just crawling.
In Manang (3540m) we were at 3.30 p.m. and unfortunately we did not manage to get place in the lodge where we wanted to stay (all recommended places were fully booked as most of the people stay here 2 up to 3 days for better acclimatization) and in the end we’ve ended in Singi (not very spectacular) with our hiking friends.

Morning view from the Upper Pisang

Receipt from the Yak and Yeti Lodge. Usually one of us was paying, we were taking the receipt, or taking the picture and calculating who owns how much.

View of Lower Pisang from Upper Pisang

I'm reaching Ghyaru

Rest in Ghyaru, after steep ascent

Doris and Jacek on the way

View over Humde, somewhere between Ghyaru and Ngawal. Notice the airport at the right.

This was where I was already tired, my Achilles was aching more and more and I was looking for some fun.

Just before Manang

Day 6: Manang - Ice Lake - Manang
Like most of the people we’ve stayed 2 days in Manang, but to keep ourselves busy and to leverage acclimatization effort we went to Kicho Tso – Ice Lake (4620m). We had to climb more than 1000m and next go down.
Climb itself was monotonous and long and boring, but the views (especially those behind our back) were amazing. Just the lake was not stunning, disappointing actually.
I was also surprised that I did not encounter any altitude sickness problems. I just got a little bit dizzy two or three times on the way up, but otherwise it was very much ok. On the way down though I had blocked ears, but maybe we were going down too fast. We’ve met the group of Indians who were with the guide who knew the path directly to Manang and not through Bragha like on the way up.
When I’ve arrived back to Manang I was hoping for hot shower, but the solar system in our lodge that was supposed to work today was still out of order. In the end I took a shower in Tilicho Hotel, but that was cold too. Maybe not stinging cold, but very much lukewarm and in the evening I did not feel well any more. I guess I was exhausted after whole day of trekking and when I took cold shower and went out I must have got cold.
Also my Achilles is not well. There is something growing and it hurts when I walk in my boots. They rub that place and with every place it’s painful. I just have to start wearing my running shoes which I took in case of emergency.

On the way to Ice Lake. View over Bragha.

Bragha

Bragha

Way to Ice Lake was boring and monotonous, but the views were spectacular. Especially those behind our backs.

View over Manang

Ice Lake. Disappointing, ain't it?

Ice Lake (4620m)

When we've reached Mamamg district we noticed new item on the menu. Sea-buckthorn juice (spelling of sea-buckthorn was different in each place, there were even variations of the spelling on one menu). It's very reach in vitamin C (it's got more vitamin C than orange) and very tasty. It's made from the fruits above.

I got into plant shooting mode on the way down from the Ice Lake